North of Porto

Published on Sunday 30th June, 2024

Porto – Vilarinho
Thursday 27th June, 2024
(28.5 km, 320 m, 4132.2 km to date)

It felt good to be back on the road again, and to be leaving Porto. Steady climbing for a while but never too steep. Cobbles seemingly without end. Built up and heavily trafficked for the first fifteen or more kilometres.

Then some countryside, but I still felt separated from it, riding along country cobbled lanes between high walls.

A short day. There will be more like it coming up. I don't really want to arrive in Santiage before earlyish on the 4th, in time for my bus on the 5th. And it's only 214 km, with six and a bit days to do it in.

I'm in a six-bedroom dorm, in a small albergue, so I hope I don't sleep too noisily. There is a very pleasant garden to relax in.

Vilarinho – Via Boa
Friday 28th June, 2024
(31.5 km, 473 m, 4163.7 km to date)

A very good night's sleep. In bed at 9:00 pm, before either of my roomies. The Argentinian lady was up early, before light, and off to a good start. The young German man was slower than I was.

I had a small breakfast at the restaurant a few yards from the albergue and watch a few peregrinos walk past. Then it was my turn to make progress towards the north with legs that felt more tired than I expected. A grey, overcast day but no precipitation, no wind and little heat.

Trending downhill to start, down to an old Roman bridge over a river. Which inevitably necessitated considerable climbing on the other side.

Better scenery today, a more rural feeling to the surroundings. Cobbles again. Cobbles count as 'pavement' but is more energy sapping than some of the dirt.

The dirt, when it appeared, was a nice change.

I caught up with a unicyclist. From behind, I assumed a young man. When he stopped at the top of a hill and turned around, I saw a bushy white beard. Not a young man, just young in spirit. From Slovakia, doing Porto to Santiago. We played leapfrog for a while: he was faster on the uphill and I was on the flat and downhill.

I'm now within 200 km of Santiago. I need at least two stamps a day in my camino passport to get a certificate/credential upon completion in Santiago.

Most peregrinos end their day in Barcelos. This cyclist decided to go on a few more kilometres to a nice-sounding rest stop in Vila Boa. Possibly a mistake. Although cheap, and hosted by very sweet people, it is lacking in atmosphere. White tiles, white walls. A garden paved with indoor/outdoor green imitation lawn. A bunk bed in a tiny room. An insubstantial meal. Maybe I'm getting too picky?

2024Broken RoadCamino PortuguésCycle TouringPorto, PTPortugal